Saturday, October 27, 2007

G is for Gaudi, Gracia and 'Goodness my feet, my feet'

Antonio Gaudi


It is only on reflection that walking for 9 hours 3 days in a row seems like a stupid idea... but let's contemplate the wiseness of decisions made and actions taken a little later. Today was all about Gaudi: Sagrada Familia and Parc Guell. We started off by once again murdering the Spanish/Catalan language at our local pastry shop. We can now ask for two coffees, two chocolate croissants and finally the bill. We throw in lots of 'pleases', 'thank yous' and 'excuse mes', JUST DON'T ASK US ANYTHING! Ask us how we are, where we are sitting, if we have the 20 cents and it all goes to HELL! Squealling, blushing and madly confering with each other in English is all part of our 'Englishman abroad' charm (although they never seem to find as charming as we'd hoped...)

Our little apartment is within viewing distance of the Sagrada Familia, so we wandered their first. We joined the bus loads (and we literally mean bus loads!) of tourists at the 'passion facade'.









This section depicts the last week of Jesus's life: judus kiss, the roman centurian who pierced jesus's side, the denial of Christ before the rooster crowed, the flagellation of Christ and of course the crucifiction. Anyone with even a bit of new testament knowledge will get it and for those who don't there is the audio guided tour. It's a bit pre vatican council two but it is none the less impressive.

We entered 'the temple' where scaffolding competes with the completed work as to which is more impressive. The light filtering through the windows onto the scaffolding was a sight to behold.





A sharp intake of breath and eyes raised we took in the awesome ceiling and central nave. It is hard to pay the deference that no doubt Gaudi wanted to the buidling (and to the good lord) when hundreds of you are packed into the tiny public access space, but after a tour of the whole temple and museum we kind of got where he was coming from and it is a beautiful place. From all accounts Gaudi appears to be a genuinally pious man viewing the earth and all of us on it as God's creation and therefore divine(even us aetheists).



We then continued on 'ally and douglas's great walking tour' hoofing it approx 3.5 km up hill from the temple to the park. The park has a number of things to recommend it: Gaudi's arcitectual vision, a view of Barcelona without peer and the most beautiful sweet breeze. Yes we have been blogging for three days now with very little mention of the weather. Today was sunny about 17 degrees, perfect weather for adventuring. Seeing the park and the temple in the same day gave us a more complete sense of his vision. Gaudi experts we are not, but you can't miss the similarities between the supporting columns of the "Passieg de palms", the viaduct, the market space and the columns in the temples nave.







Having walked another 3km around the park it was time for cervesa...and so we walked back down the hill to the acclaimed "arty farty / bohemien " area of the Gracia. Always suspicous of the bohemia tag we found the placa de sol; a quiet little square complete with: punks with dogs, the unwashed, and those who don't work 9-5. They were relaxed, we were exhausted and we shared the common bond: a love of beer.



No rest for the wicked so we made an aborted attempt at two Guadi houses in central barcelona before we realised our feet were about the explode. We called it a day. Both of us are starting to contemplate alternative transport options: Ally's feet are blistered and she suspects stress fractures, Douglas is fearful that his size twelves will soon be stumps. We are thinking tommorrow seems like a beautiful day for a rest day.

Thanks Estrella Damm...

Day 2
Early morning coffee and croissant at a local patisseria up the road. Already they recognise us as regulars. Though i'm sure when we walk in the door the conversation goes a little something like - "Great! It's those two hobbits again here to butcher our language and triumphantly high five when they string a simple sentence together!".

Spent the rest of the day exploring more of the Barrio Gotic and the Born. Visited the Picasso museum, wandered through shops and just generally walked wherever our feet would take us soaking up the city.
We even finally bore witness to the infamous "Barcelona Street Crime" we were seemingly constantly warned about before arriving. It basically consists of a bunch of kids distracting you with a clipboard and a fake petition to sign then making off with your wallet if it's in easy reach. A woman at the table next to us had her purse nabbed however managed to get it back after an all too brief chase. The little men were back 10 minutes later looking for another mark.





These guys are all over the place (I think i've even seen a couple in Melbourne.)














(One of the many statues at Placa De Gracia)


(Part statue, part bird...all pidgeon.)




The catalan's love their bicycles and scooters. They fang around on these things at a million miles an hour and the only reason i'm sure they stop at red lights is because people are crossing the road. It's like the start of a Moto GP everytime they get a green (i should try and get video).


These people have been walking 9 hours straight. They've seen and experienced the wonders of an amazing foreign city yet look how dull, lifeless and boring they seem.


We've given them both a glass each of fine Estrella Damm European Lager. Lets see the results!


SUCCESS!! Now they're a young vibrant couple, ready to tackle ANY topic at your next dinner party! Thanks Estrella Damm!

d.

Thursday, October 25, 2007

In which the rain in Spain falls in Barcelona sometimes...

Hola mi amigos con amigas.

Astounding! We have survived the long flight even with an unexpected stopover for an hour in Milan. Whoever imagined placing televisions in the backs of seats should be knighted!
We've been in Barcelona for 2 days we're just starting our 3rd.
Day 1 we navigated our way from the airport to our apartment on Avenue Diagonal with casual aplomb! Dumped our bags, showered changed and hit the STREETS!






The Barrio Gotic (old town)and Born have been our main focus so far. They're both pretty overun with turistas in parts, however take a left turn here a right turn there and you can still manage to get lost among the maze of crooked alleyways, tightly packed apartment blocks, cathedrals, Roman ruins and Modernista architecture. Cool cafes and cervazarias are buried in tiny doorways and usually filled with what seems to always be the same guy gesticulating wildly in deep conversation with the bartender. Round a corner and you're faced with tiny boutique art galleries, fashion shops and more shoes than you can poke a toe at.


One of the many laneways of the The Barrio Gotic.












After wandering the laneways for a few hours it was of course time to continue the food tour of Europe. Or as some people call it "lunch". We headed to the Bocqueria, an unbelievable market situated amongst yet more Roman architecture and possibly one of the most amazing food markets i've ever seen. Fish so fresh it's still moving, piles and piles of fruit and vegetables, mushrooms, spices, beans, coffee, cheese and of course MEAT!!













We bought some baguettes, tomatoes, olive oil and Jamon Iberaca (The Black Pig!!!) and sought out a little square (Placa de sant Felip Neri)we had read about. A quiet spot somewhere in the middle of the Gotic and as it turns out the scene of a Spanish Civil War massacre (43 people mostly children no...). The bullet holes still dotting the stone walls and the sounds of the children playing at lunchtime made the place both at once serene, a little macabre but also hopeful.







Some more strolling around the Gotic and the Born and of course beer o'clock set in and the food tour continues.
Less that 24 hours on the ground and already we had found a favorite tapas place "taller de tapas" or Tapas workshop. Tired heads, tired legs, and an unquenching thirst we inhaled the first beer and then devoured various plates of Artesian sausages and white beans, "patitas bravas" (potatoes with tomato and spicy mayonaisse), "pa amb tomates" (Tomato bread) a pile of spinach with pancetta and chickpeas and a couple of un cafes (coffee!). Perfect!





Plenty more to tell...but for now it's bed time. There are a lot more photos at the Flickr. Will be back soon with a little more Born and Barrio Gotic, more Gaudi than is humanly possible. The Museum of Comic Illustration and most likely a game of Futbol!


-
Bonus fact #1 -
Picasso used to eat drink and hang out with his mates and chicas here at Els Quatro Gats.





He also designed the menu. They serve a fantastic Catalan cream (a kind of crème brulée)...
Picasso also had a dachsund called Lump.

Monday, October 22, 2007

In which bags are packed...passports and tickets double checked...

Time for one of the classics -
Clark Griswold - "There's the Left Bank, kids. Russ, I bet you can't guess what bank is on the right."
Rusty Griswold - "The Bank of America."

And with that...European Vacation Mixtape part #2.

See you in Barcelona!

Sunday, October 21, 2007